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The scientifization of “green” anti-ageing cosmetics in online marketing: a multimodal critical discourse analysis
Örebro universitet, Institutionen för humaniora, utbildnings- och samhällsvetenskap. Media and Communication Studies.ORCID-id: 0000-0002-4876-3352
Örebro universitet, Institutionen för humaniora, utbildnings- och samhällsvetenskap. Media and Communication Studies.ORCID-id: 0000-0002-1089-5819
2023 (Engelska)Ingår i: Social Semiotics, ISSN 1035-0330, E-ISSN 1470-1219, Vol. 33, nr 5, s. 1026-1045Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat) Published
Abstract [en]

This paper examines the marketing of trending green cosmetic products containing natural ingredients and coming with claims to keep skin health-enhancing and age-defying benefits. This is fostered by the growing importance of successful ageing and the neoliberal self-care agenda. Adopting the notion of "integrated design" from Multimodal Critical Discourse Analysis (MCDA), this paper looks at the communicative affordances of the web and how marketers of "green" cosmetics connect these to science. The analysis shows that the integrated design of the webpages allows cosmetic companies to connote science while glossing over significant details, leaving causalities, classifications, and processes unspecified. This marketing frames fighting the "look" of ageing as a moral and ethical consumption choice. Such choices relate to self-care regimes of a "successful" neoliberal citizenship.

Ort, förlag, år, upplaga, sidor
Routledge, 2023. Vol. 33, nr 5, s. 1026-1045
Nyckelord [en]
Commodity feminism, green cosmetics, integrated design, multimodal critical discourse analysis, science communication, successful ageing
Nationell ämneskategori
Medie-, kommunikations-, och informationsvetenskaper
Identifikatorer
URN: urn:nbn:se:oru:diva-94857DOI: 10.1080/10350330.2021.1981128ISI: 000702703400001Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-85116350568OAI: oai:DiVA.org:oru-94857DiVA, id: diva2:1601562
Tillgänglig från: 2021-10-08 Skapad: 2021-10-08 Senast uppdaterad: 2025-02-07Bibliografiskt granskad
Ingår i avhandling
1. Recontextualising ageing as a choice: A critical approach to representations of successful ageing
Öppna denna publikation i ny flik eller fönster >>Recontextualising ageing as a choice: A critical approach to representations of successful ageing
2022 (Engelska)Doktorsavhandling, sammanläggning (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
Abstract [en]

This thesis examines the intersection between representations of ageing femininities, empowerment, and oppression in marketing and advertising practices, within the context of successful ageing. In the current era of population ageing, debates on gender and ageing are becoming more pronounced. Due to population ageing, there is a visible increase in representations of (successful) ageing in the media. As a result, we are experiencing an expansion in the “grey market” of anti-ageing products and services, e.g., cosmetics, mainly aimed at wealthy older women who constitute an important market segment for such. Given that the media helps form people’s ideas about ageing, there is a need to critically examine this growing market and how older women are represented and/or addressed in it. Such representations are crucial for understanding contemporary feminist discussions on the contestation between women’s empowerment and oppression. To provide a deeper understanding of this phenomenon, I use an intersectional feminist perspective combined with the methodology of Multimodal Critical Discourse Analysis (MCDA). This perspective highlights and deconstructs the complex ways in which power and ideology work to maintain and reinforce existing intersectional structural inequalities based on age, gender, class, and race that marginalise women. This thesis consists of three empirical studies. The findings suggest a shift from the postfeminist gaze towards a neoliberal self-objectifying gaze that closely operates alongside discourses of successful ageing. This self-objectifying gaze encourages women to actively work on and transform the ageing self through intensifying self-surveillance, self-scrutiny, and self-improvement practices. These self-transformation practices are presented as the free choices of empowered, entrepreneurial, and responsibilised subjects. Nonetheless, such choices confine women to never-ending forms of self-governance that promote the internalisation of patriarchal and capitalist ideal standards of beauty, thus reinscribing privilege and oppression.

Ort, förlag, år, upplaga, sidor
Örebro: Örebro University, 2022. s. 116
Serie
Örebro Studies in Media and Communication, ISSN 1651-4785 ; 28
Nyckelord
Cosmetic advertising, grey market, intersectionality, Multimodal Critical Discourse Analysis, neoliberalism, older women, postfeminism, successful ageing
Nationell ämneskategori
Medie- och kommunikationsvetenskap
Identifikatorer
urn:nbn:se:oru:diva-97950 (URN)9789175294360 (ISBN)
Disputation
2022-05-06, Örebro universitet, Forumhuset, Hörsal F, Fakultetsgatan 1, Örebro, 13:15 (Svenska)
Opponent
Handledare
Tillgänglig från: 2022-03-10 Skapad: 2022-03-10 Senast uppdaterad: 2025-02-11Bibliografiskt granskad

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Kenalemang-Palm, Lame M.Eriksson, Göran

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