To Örebro University

oru.seÖrebro University Publications
Change search
CiteExportLink to record
Permanent link

Direct link
Cite
Citation style
  • apa
  • ieee
  • modern-language-association-8th-edition
  • vancouver
  • Other style
More styles
Language
  • de-DE
  • en-GB
  • en-US
  • fi-FI
  • nn-NO
  • nn-NB
  • sv-SE
  • Other locale
More languages
Output format
  • html
  • text
  • asciidoc
  • rtf
The scientifization of “green” anti-ageing cosmetics in online marketing: a multimodal critical discourse analysis
Örebro University, School of Humanities, Education and Social Sciences. Media and Communication Studies.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-4876-3352
Örebro University, School of Humanities, Education and Social Sciences. Media and Communication Studies.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-1089-5819
2023 (English)In: Social Semiotics, ISSN 1035-0330, E-ISSN 1470-1219, Vol. 33, no 5, p. 1026-1045Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

This paper examines the marketing of trending green cosmetic products containing natural ingredients and coming with claims to keep skin health-enhancing and age-defying benefits. This is fostered by the growing importance of successful ageing and the neoliberal self-care agenda. Adopting the notion of "integrated design" from Multimodal Critical Discourse Analysis (MCDA), this paper looks at the communicative affordances of the web and how marketers of "green" cosmetics connect these to science. The analysis shows that the integrated design of the webpages allows cosmetic companies to connote science while glossing over significant details, leaving causalities, classifications, and processes unspecified. This marketing frames fighting the "look" of ageing as a moral and ethical consumption choice. Such choices relate to self-care regimes of a "successful" neoliberal citizenship.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Routledge, 2023. Vol. 33, no 5, p. 1026-1045
Keywords [en]
Commodity feminism, green cosmetics, integrated design, multimodal critical discourse analysis, science communication, successful ageing
National Category
Media and Communications
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:oru:diva-94857DOI: 10.1080/10350330.2021.1981128ISI: 000702703400001Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-85116350568OAI: oai:DiVA.org:oru-94857DiVA, id: diva2:1601562
Available from: 2021-10-08 Created: 2021-10-08 Last updated: 2025-02-07Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Recontextualising ageing as a choice: A critical approach to representations of successful ageing
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Recontextualising ageing as a choice: A critical approach to representations of successful ageing
2022 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

This thesis examines the intersection between representations of ageing femininities, empowerment, and oppression in marketing and advertising practices, within the context of successful ageing. In the current era of population ageing, debates on gender and ageing are becoming more pronounced. Due to population ageing, there is a visible increase in representations of (successful) ageing in the media. As a result, we are experiencing an expansion in the “grey market” of anti-ageing products and services, e.g., cosmetics, mainly aimed at wealthy older women who constitute an important market segment for such. Given that the media helps form people’s ideas about ageing, there is a need to critically examine this growing market and how older women are represented and/or addressed in it. Such representations are crucial for understanding contemporary feminist discussions on the contestation between women’s empowerment and oppression. To provide a deeper understanding of this phenomenon, I use an intersectional feminist perspective combined with the methodology of Multimodal Critical Discourse Analysis (MCDA). This perspective highlights and deconstructs the complex ways in which power and ideology work to maintain and reinforce existing intersectional structural inequalities based on age, gender, class, and race that marginalise women. This thesis consists of three empirical studies. The findings suggest a shift from the postfeminist gaze towards a neoliberal self-objectifying gaze that closely operates alongside discourses of successful ageing. This self-objectifying gaze encourages women to actively work on and transform the ageing self through intensifying self-surveillance, self-scrutiny, and self-improvement practices. These self-transformation practices are presented as the free choices of empowered, entrepreneurial, and responsibilised subjects. Nonetheless, such choices confine women to never-ending forms of self-governance that promote the internalisation of patriarchal and capitalist ideal standards of beauty, thus reinscribing privilege and oppression.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Örebro: Örebro University, 2022. p. 116
Series
Örebro Studies in Media and Communication, ISSN 1651-4785 ; 28
Keywords
Cosmetic advertising, grey market, intersectionality, Multimodal Critical Discourse Analysis, neoliberalism, older women, postfeminism, successful ageing
National Category
Media and Communication Studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:oru:diva-97950 (URN)9789175294360 (ISBN)
Public defence
2022-05-06, Örebro universitet, Forumhuset, Hörsal F, Fakultetsgatan 1, Örebro, 13:15 (Swedish)
Opponent
Supervisors
Available from: 2022-03-10 Created: 2022-03-10 Last updated: 2025-02-11Bibliographically approved

Open Access in DiVA

No full text in DiVA

Other links

Publisher's full textScopus

Authority records

Kenalemang-Palm, Lame M.Eriksson, Göran

Search in DiVA

By author/editor
Kenalemang-Palm, Lame M.Eriksson, Göran
By organisation
School of Humanities, Education and Social Sciences
In the same journal
Social Semiotics
Media and Communications

Search outside of DiVA

GoogleGoogle Scholar

doi
urn-nbn

Altmetric score

doi
urn-nbn
Total: 1511 hits
CiteExportLink to record
Permanent link

Direct link
Cite
Citation style
  • apa
  • ieee
  • modern-language-association-8th-edition
  • vancouver
  • Other style
More styles
Language
  • de-DE
  • en-GB
  • en-US
  • fi-FI
  • nn-NO
  • nn-NB
  • sv-SE
  • Other locale
More languages
Output format
  • html
  • text
  • asciidoc
  • rtf