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Hipster Hospitality: The Paradox of Accessibility and Exclusivity in Contemporary Food Culture
Örebro University, School of Hospitality, Culinary Arts & Meal Science.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-1636-9059
2025 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation only (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

Elite status in the gastronomic sector has traditionally been associated with fine dining. However, in recent years, a new form of elite food discourse has emerged within hipster restaurants. Host-guest interactions in these spaces embody a paradox, simultaneously embracing ideals of accessibility and exclusivity. Research shows that while these venues position themselves as inclusive and community-driven, they subtly maintain elite status through aesthetic values, symbolic meanings, and service practices. This phenomenon reveals how exclusivity operates within seemingly accessible food spaces, catering to individuals who share similar cultural understandings of food. Drawing on ethnographic research and cultural analysis, this study examines how hipster restaurant venues both challenge and reinforce social hierarchies, offering an ambivalent form of democratization. On one hand, they reject traditional fine dining markers such as rigid service scripts and perfectionist craftsmanship. On the other, they cultivate new forms of distinction based on social taste and aesthetic sensibilities. Despite their casual and welcoming appearance, hipster food spaces, such as artisanal coffee shops, natural wine bars, and neo-bistros, maintain elite status through leisure service and particular taste regimes. Paradoxically, professionals in these settings frame their work as inclusive and democratic, contrasting with broader discourses on food democracy, where inclusivity and accessibility are emphasized. This study contributes to discussions on hipster hospitality as both a democratic and elite phenomenon. By interrogating the intersection of elite and contemporary food cultures within hospitality, it explores how the amplification of certain voices shapes the legitimacy and desirability of food spaces while marginalizing others. Situating hipster hospitality within broader debates on media and food democracy, this research highlights the tensions between inclusion and exclusion in contemporary food discourse.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
2025.
National Category
Other Social Sciences not elsewhere specified
Research subject
Culinary Arts and Meal Science
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:oru:diva-123682OAI: oai:DiVA.org:oru-123682DiVA, id: diva2:1998111
Conference
4th Conference on Food & Communication: Food for All: Media, Communication and Food Democracy, Lille, France, September 10-12, 2025
Available from: 2025-09-15 Created: 2025-09-15 Last updated: 2025-09-16Bibliographically approved

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Hult, Kajsa

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CiteExportLink to record
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Citation style
  • apa
  • ieee
  • modern-language-association-8th-edition
  • vancouver
  • Other style
More styles
Language
  • de-DE
  • en-GB
  • en-US
  • fi-FI
  • nn-NO
  • nn-NB
  • sv-SE
  • Other locale
More languages
Output format
  • html
  • text
  • asciidoc
  • rtf